Singer 968 Instructions

Porsche 944 S2 How to replace water pump timing belts and shaft seals

Replacing the water pump, all belts and the shaft seals on a Porsche 944 S2 Preparations on the upper side It's time, our Porsche needs a great service and last saturday the large water hose broke on a trip with our Porsche club Disconnect the battery Disconnect the plug wires from the distributor Remove the distributor cap The upper cover of the timing belt is removed

Remove the cover of the camshaft sprocket Dismount the rotor, don't lose the distance rings Lock the sprocket by three M5x20 bolts to save the timing Open the bleed plug of the cooling system Preparations on the lower side Remove the engine's undercover . and the lower part of the bumper Take out the large hose between the water pump and the radiator

Disconnect the hose coming from the reservoir from the pump Unplug and remove the cooling fans In order to lock the crankshaft, the starter motor has to be removed Disconnect the wires and slacken the two bolts Removing the belts Lock the flywheel by an Allen key in one of bolts Slacken the central bolt in the crankshaft Removing belts starts with drive belt of the power steering pump

Loosen the power steering pivot bolts and the locknuts of the pressure rod The left side has a left thread Turn the pressure rod until it is possible remove the belt Hang up the pump and remove the pivot bolt After removing this part, the pump can be taken out sidewards The same procedure applies to remove the drivebelt of the alternator Remove the lower cover of the timing belt Keep order

Loosen the tensioner of the balance shafts belt Take the belt out Remove the idler The TDC is reached when the mark on sprocket fits to mark on housing Turning the crankshaft Now the central bolt and the pulley for the drivebelt can be taken off The alternator pulley has 4 bolts For dismounting the timing belt, a special pin spanner is needed

Loosen the nut and bolt of the tensioner Turn the tensioner against the spring and fix the bolt Lift the belt off the camshaft sprocket and remove upper idler For pulling the sprockets a distance piece is quite useful Using a puller, the sprocket for the balance shafts belt is dismounted Remove the securing clip These are not the bolts for the tensioner The tensioner is fixed on three hidden bolts

Making the Porsche tool P 233

Making the tool 233 for locking the fly wheel of the Porsche 944 Hi, see I got a new jacket from Santa Claus This time, we will make the Porsche tool P 233 for locking the fly wheel The tool is mounted instead of the starter For dismounting the starter, I have to disconnect the battery Secure the poles by covers Dismount the cables from the starter The thin cable is off

Now, the main cable and the starter is free The starter is fixed by two bolts Unlocking them might be difficult Be careful, for this bolt even the breaker bar's head is to large The result would be a round head You'll need such a special bar One bolt is off, support the starter and take the second off

The tools consists of a plate mounted instead of the starter and toothed block which locks the fly wheel Thanks to Schocki, who supplied me with this picture of the orginal tool Thanks to Jürgen for posting this drawing The main problem in making this tool are these gears First I will try it with a wood model I don't have a milling cutter for this pitch, thus I have to cut the shape step by step The basic shape is made by a sawing blade The first cut is 6.5 mm from the edge

The depth I adjust to 5mm and 5 The inclination of the flanks I make with a 60° countersink 2, 4, 6 and 7 mm for the next tooth A first test at a gear with a similar pitch The check with the fly wheel shows that the pitch isn't correct Some trials later the tool fits much better The distance is now 6.5 mm

Now we can make the tool of steel Sawing the steel by hand is a lot of work, we use our infernal machine The plate of the tool we cut herefrom and now the long side The base was rolled steel, thus the lateral edge is quite round I mill over the whole edge A precise ground plate is helpful for the further steps The micrometer shows 30.00 mm

The same procedure for the long side I am milling the first side The left side is plane now Before the last pass, I remove the burr with the file 0.16 mm are still to much 3 bars more To give the plate an orientation I stamp the number in The holes for the mounting bolts come next

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